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Random Tips And Methods
Used At The Oak
Planner Board Towline Tip...If you have ever used 200 to 500 lb. test Superline and a bungee cord in rough water and had one pop free, try some 200 lb. test Ande mono (no bungee). The stretch of mono is very forgiving, like a heavy rubber band...no sudden shocks to those big double boards. We know of two two anglers who used the same mono line and never had a break off in 20 years. Use silicone spray on it...the releases slide down quicker.
Leadcore Depth Adjustment With Lead Weights...It's important to run your leadcore presentations in the prime zone. (BTW, the prime zone is where most of the silvers hang out in their preferred temp.) Where the ten color leadcore is spliced to the 40' to 60' fluorocarbon leader, using a #16 rubber band on the fluorocarbon, attach a 4 oz, 6 oz, 8 oz, or 10 oz. lead weight (occasionally a 12 oz. to 16 oz. when they're 80' and deeper). When reeling in your fish, stop at the dropper and yank off the rubber banded weight. If a little rubber goes on your reel...no sweat, just remove it on your re-setup. BTW, when you have a hot rigger zone and decide to put out one or two leadcores, one could research last years Fishing Report Summary and make up a chart showing commonly used drop weights for five or ten colors out and passes past the knot....if any. For instance, as we were adding the review recently, we noticed when the hot riggers were 60' to 70' down, it usually mentioned 10 colors, 10 passes past the knot and 8 oz. lead weight.
Refined leadcore and weight program (Courtesy "Buc-a-roo")...Capt. Ron Penna runs twin leadcores, both off outriggers. For fish 70' to 90' deep--10 to 15 passes past the knot, plus 8 to 12 oz. leadweight rubberband halfhitched to the 40' to 60' florocarbon leader ("Buc-a-roo" likes Vanish, Seaguar is highly rated) where it is spliced to the leadcore on the lure end. When the weight comes in to the boat, just rip it off and keep reeling. BTW, Capt. Ron uses 27# test leadcore with the florocarbon leader to the lure and makes sure he has a full 275 yd. spool of 20# test smoke Fireline as backing and then splices on his leadcore. Two reasons for this: first, the Fireline is very thin and cuts the water for greater depth; second, he used to use mono backing on the core, but had many core lines cut off when a screamer king took off on one of his riggers, went under & up and sliced them off. However the Fireline is very tough and won't cut.
More Details On Leadcore Rod, Reel & Line Set-Up...courtesy Duane Jones "3 C's"
I can only tell you what has worked well for me. That being, the use of a Penn 330 reel, Daiwa Heartland X 10 1/2 foot rod, used in a Big Jon heavy duty rod holder. The line that I put on as backing was Cabela's Ripcord 30# test of 400 yards. This thin diameter line allows for a greater amount than would be possible with a mono line. Splice on 27# leadcore using an albright knot with a minimum of 7 wraps and then secure with Sure-Lok knot glue. Spool on 10 colors and then attach a leader of 20 lb. test mono, using a lead of 50 to 100 foot. The way to attach the mono is to pull the sheath off the leadcore approximately 6 inches back. Snip off the lead and then insert the mono back into the sheath. You then simply tie 3 overhand knots approximately 1 1/2 inches apart starting from the back and moving forward so when you end up the last knot is about 1 1/2 inches in from the end of the leadcore itself. Then spool on a desired mono lead. This setup when used can be extremely effective. If the temp and targets are down deep, greater depth can be achieved by using an additional weights such as 6 to 16 oz., simply half hitched with a rubber band at the first knot, and then removed as it approaches the boat. On a relatively flat lake the same rig can be used with the use of a planer board for greater coverage, attached with a heavy duty Offshore release. This is a way back fishing technique. When we hook into what we consider a major, we will often clear this line first for obvious reasons. Many, not only off the Oak, but elsewhere, are using this rig. So when we are navigating around our fellow fisherpersons, let's be not only wary, but also courteous of a sudden turn behind someone else's vessel. For they are trolling over 300 feet behind them or even greater. This rig does require an extra degree of work, but one that is often worth doing. We refer to this rig as the Widow Maker and the first time you take a savage hit on this rig, starting this far behind the boat, you'll see why. BTW, The leadcore does pull back rather easily. Make sure when you insert the mono leader that it butts up against the lead in the sheath itself. The weight, that if added, is at the end where the mono lead meets the leadcore. On Lake Ontario I normally like to run spoons such as a dolphin (green or Penna), laser or gold spook or especially in direct sunlight a watermelon, just to name a few. The use of a clean teaser (glow) with cut-bait at especially this time of year can be effective also. On Lake Erie this same rig will take many walleyes with the use of a crawler and harness. Most measure the length of line out by referring to where the knot (Albright) is at in relation to the water. Such as knot at the water or 5 to10 passes past the knot. Remember on a hit where it was at and then duplicate.
River Trolling For Kings...courtesy Duane Jones "3 C's"
A tip to those who may be limited to trolling the creek September thru mid October. Slow troll to 1 mph or slower. Use a J-13 in orange or chartreuse on a flat line when traffic allows. Pull 2 Ping-A-Tees on 2 riggers just below the surface. When trolling the creek, the lines will often get fouled with grass and such, but it can often be explosive. The area between the Yacht Club and Captain's Cove is the one to target. Use a heavy duty snap. One thing that must be mentioned is, as you know, the kypes are developing at a rapid rate, so although the hookups may be high, the landings may be limited. It's fun anyways.
Drop-ball Rig For Kings (inside waters)...courtesy Duane Jones "3 C's"
It consists of a Daiwa dipsey rod 9 foot in length, using 30 lb. mono. With this use a Big Jon jettison release 20 to 30 foot lead with a 12 to16 oz weight. Fishing in 60 to110 feet of water, put this rig in free spool with clicker on to eliminate any backlash. Let out until one feels it hit bottom. Pull in 3 to 5 feet on counter of 47LC. Use a dodger and squid or Howie (flasher with reversed tinsel fly). As long as one stays on the same line, on occasion you will pick a few mussels, you are putting this rig within a few feet of bottom, often aggravating a strike from bottom hugging fish. Simply watch rod tip to ensure on occasion that it is tapping bottom. I run this right down the middle with an open rod holder on my Cannons, this allows for clearance on the sides for a leadcore or diver rod.
Dodger/Squid/Bait For Kings...courtesy "Troutman"
A few days after Labor Day, Capt. John Oravec's party took 5 of their 7 kings on this presentation. On the inside waters, run the deep rigger close to bottom with a dodger/squid 20' to 40' back and 2' to 3' off bottom. Slow down from cut-bait speed to dodger/squid speed to eliminate short hits. What made it work was a small slice of cut-bait on the squid hooks...a combo that can be deadly at times.
Trolling Speed Info...Many have asked about trolling speeds...here are the basics. First, as 95% of you are aware of, the proper lure speed is very critical. Flatlining speed is a no-brainer, everyone has a surface temp-speed gauge and you eyeball your lure at the side of the boat before letting it back into trolling position. The tricky part is that down speed, where it's easy to have it too fast or too slow and worthless. It's easy when you have electronic down temp and speed capability. This is too expensive for a lot of fishermen and frequently malfunctions...check around for the best units. If you have this unit, you don't need to read this. The biggest reason one can be messed up down deep is the constantly changing currents we have out there. They are caused by various wind directions and intensities, besides the natural currents. When you hear speed mentioned on the VHF, it's almost always down speed at the ball. Here are two methods to use if you don't have the electronics. If you are isolated from the other boats that are consistently netting fish, experiment with speed while keeping track of your downrigger cable driftback (misleading sometimes because of occasional strong currents just under the boat and a little ways down...more reliable is the bend in the dipsey rods because of the much thinner wire). Remember, each direction could be different because of those currents. When you start taking fish, remember the angle of the cables and your surface speed. The sure fire method when you're near those trollers with lots of action, pick one out and troll broadside to them for a few minutes and note the surface speed. Of course, this is when they're in their fishing mode, not when they have slowed down to net their catch. The better boats, many times, have a certain compass heading for the most productive results. For a few minutes stay abreast of them, at least 100 yards away so you don't crowd them. Once again, each direction could have a different speed. BTW, some spoons are more speed forgiving...cut-bait and dodger/squid speeds are touchy. Also, check with your fishing buddies on the VHF
Cortland "Flea Flicker" Line...courtesy Capt. Joe Toomey, "Irish Pride Charters".
Have been using the Cortland Flea Flicker line for a few trips. I must say that I am not a Cortland fan, but when fished against Big Game 15, which is my normal line, the 15 loads up with fleas and the 20 lb Cortland stays clean with the exception of about an inch at the lure. Line looks funny as it is an oblong shape but you can get more on the reel than you can 30 lb. It's a blue color, the only one made right now. Have had good luck so far and I am running a 8 foot leader of Seagur Fluorocarbon on the Cortland. Seems to work well and have done as many fish as on Big Game with it set up this way. One thing I was told from another Captain is that you cannot use it with Black releases, as when you twirl it to put it in the release, I was told that it flat spots the line and it will then be weakened and it will break. Will send more info as I work with it a little more.
Flea Tip...Several top Charters are battling those creatures by using 150' of 30 lb. clear Big Game, then they blood knot a 8' leader of 20 lb. te Seaguar fluorocarbon leader. This works fair...then have two spare rods ready to go. When reeling in your fish, shake the line in the water a few times, land the fish and re-set with a spare rod. Then on the rod and line just used, remove the lure and slide the fleas off and re-tie.
Alternate trolling program...Another set-up that produces targets in fairly clam water...The usual 3 or 4 riggers, 2 divers and then what takes those bonus big guys. Planner board off both sides, 40' or farther out, on each one a single mono dropball rig using Big Jon jettison releases 20' to 30' ahead of your spoon or cut-bait. The weights...use either 8, 10 or 12 ozs. and run 300' back. This presentation is always advisable to use when you have your own area with little traffic. This is close to what we had in here a month ago, but eliminated...two set-ups on each side are too much trouble and not necessary.
Proven Rigging Technique...One of the more effective programs for all silvers...This is simple, but has been one of the best programs this and past seasons. Stagger three riggers in the prime zone, sometimes with the lowest one a mup rig. Two divers, usually with a #2 setting, mono in the spring, wire for the rest of the season. Here's where those bonus fish come from...2 leadcores, with or without weights (depending on depth desired), run off outriggers. If you don't have outriggers, run a planner board off only one side 40' to 60' out. Use a black offshore release with the jaws wrapped shut with a rubber band for solid hook-ups. That's for your first leadcore, run the second off the boat like you usually do. BTW, the anglers who tried the previous two ski, four line set-up found it too time consuming and a wild king would destroy a lot of gear. Of course, keep the ski in the boat in choppy seas. This program provides tangle free, no cut-offs, trouble free (usually), but very effective presentation...more is not always better.
Slide Divers...these have "angle out" settings close to a regular Luhr Jensen Dipsey. They have a trip mechanism that allows you to put out any length of leader you desire. 35' back is commonly used. One of the best colors you can paint it is a flat lead gray, like lead cannonballs. Some put pink fluorescent tape on top. The big advantage of this set-up is distance back (from diver to lure) in our usually clear waters. Frequently, your high riggers are 20' to 40' down and 25' to 35' back...this set-up duplicates them, but off to the side.
Mup Rig...it's simple and sometimes deadly. On one, two, three or four riggers (at least the bottom two) run a favorite spoon 12' off the ball. Pin an add-a-line (they don't call them cheaters anymore) 4' above. This should go 6' back. Most often they should be the same pattern. There are variations on leading and trailing size spoons, could be a 44 trailed by a 55, a C-5 trailed by a 28 or reverse the size for a flasher type presentation. Maybe a 66 followed by a 55, a mag followed by a 28 or combos of Silver Streaks, Evileyes, Stingers etc, ect.
Speed-Tuning Spoons...(veterans already know this) To run your Pirate 55s at a 3.3 to 3.6 clip (during June, July and August, many times kings like 'em at this speed), place your spoon on a flat surface, belly down and using your thumb, press down a little near the hump at the rear of the blade. This flattens it just a little. For real slow trolling, like for scraping kings off the bottom in maybe 50' to 70' of water, or perhaps an add-a-line above a dodger, do the reverse. On a 66 or mag, bend a little more cup into it. For 3 to 3.5 speed trolling the 44, merely replace the small #1 treble with a 1/0 treble. They shouldn't spin back there, they should dance around.
Late August N/E Blow Upwelling Tip...When the kings stage out front in 150' to 400' (or wherever) and the lake turns over and creates inside cold water...this has worked many times. When the water temp has settled at around at 52° to 55° at 50' or so down, speed troll the inside waters in the 50' to 100' depths of water. Put four Pirate 44s (or your favorite small silver spoon) on your riggers 12', 22', 32' and 42' down. They must be around 70' back, your speed has to be 2.8 to 3.5 and 1/0 trebles on your 44s. The best area is from the Pump House west to the umbrella tree east. First one in gets the cream, after it gets crowded, forget it.
At The Oak...Fishing Page
